I originally used standard E36 spindles and brakes, but caster just does not work out. ABS sensors wouldn't have to come out, and. Pros: complete bolt-on. The Porsche guys swap them for units with a higher knee pressure.

You may have to devise your own strategy for doing labor. You'd have to make caliper bracket adapters, though. Only a slight improvement in brakes. Check that the calipers are in full working order (no sticking pistons, seals etc) and the brake hoses are not worn or cracked. FRONT: REAR: You've been warned. This is the effect of the mass of the brakes fitted to the strut, where they are not properly "sprung and damped" by the suspension like the chassis is. - Other kits from mfrs including AP Racing, Brembo, Alcon, and Hi Spec. FIT ON BMW E30 ( 318, 325, i, is, e, es ) and more ! Of course the new hard area is more resistant to the pad's abrasion and so as the material around it is worn away it becomes higher, which makes it hotter, and therefore even harder....and so on.

Only a slight improvement in brakes. Gave me versatility to switch between suspensions, whenever I feel like, because swaps don't take more than 30 minutes up front.

There are a few ways of doing this and I will cover all of the ones I have attempted on several cars. Cons: expensive and rare. - The WMS 280mm (fits 15" BBS & 16" Alpina) and 298.5mm (fits 16" Hartge & AC Schnitzer) 4-pot kits which have custom 1.25" E30-specific pistons. Very important to have right control arms for front caster to be correct. In a perfect world, if finances allow, you'll be going this route. More reading and work involved. This conversion requires no imagination, as it is a bolt-on. Cheap imitations appear to have forge line, but then you can easily see cast mark running through the forge mark. Don't fall for that trap. Tools Needed: Something I've considered, but m3 hubs are tough to find at a good price. These TAs use small 72mm bearings (like 318ti and Z3(I4)). You Need: trailing arms, brakes.

Regardless of which option you go with, it will be cheaper to find and buy any wheels your heart desires in 4-lugs, even filling/redrilling. If you get a pair of e30 m3 hubs and modify dust-shield, e36m3 rear rotors fit the hub and have same center bore. I have a full machine shop and welding center at school I can use if I have to, but I'd really rather not.

Bent parts are no fun to work with, not to mention, potentially dangerous. You can easily spot the difference in the shape around outer ball-joint. Modern brake materials no longer gas in anything like the same way, so grilled discs are of FAR less use than they used to, and given that they can crack the main reason people buy them is for the "look". This is a hidden advantage/disadvantage of running 318ti TAs/hubs. 318ti hub is 5mm shorter, than Z3 hub. Have to splice-in ABS sensors. Floating rotors are very expensive though and are almost exclusively for race-cars only - although BMW have recently used the principle on the M3, the discs have aluminium bells with radial spoke-like pegs, and the cast-iron rotor "floats" on these pegs! Prices on these control arms aren't low. You DON'T Need: anything else.

I've seen people drill new holes for strut mounts right in the strut tower. Wheel sits too far back and very often rubs. ABS is untouched. So, it is a no fit. Differential Output Flanges. On one hand, you are able to run lower offset wheels, and some run offset as low as ET20 (most ET23) with stretched tires and rolled fenders. The solution to that is just to replace them with a fresh new set. The downsides to lighter brake discs, is that they heat up faster due to the lower "thermal mass", but lighter callipers, pads, alloy bells and mounting brackets all give you "free grip". Warning of wisdom: I have yet to receive/find a set of stock E36 struts that aren't blown.

you'll need to get mz3 trailing arms, hubs, axles, and diff flanges to fit m3/mz3 rear brakes. Always ensure that your braking components are in full working order and good condition before embarking on any upgrade. All ABS-equipped cars have rear discs, so you'll need the 6 Line kit if you have ABS. Urethane subframe, diff, trailing arm, control arm bushings, http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139412, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=132194, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=5-Lug_Conversion&oldid=32405.

New ones are expensive. Many people consider this to be the "right way" to do this swap.

Very important to find a '96+ E36 M3 to source parts from, but if you can't find all of these parts in one place, put this kit together. ( please contact us if your E30 is from 84 or 85 ! sweet. Z3(I6) received wider rear arches for that aggressive look, BUT along with that, trailing arms and CV axles were also widened. This setup is simply not plausible without doing wide-body conversion. Converting to M-Roadster/M-Coupe rear 5-lug = MONEY. The things people miss are that (1) the disc returns to a mostly non-warped state as soon as you back off the brakes or take the disc off the car for inspection, and (2) machining the disc won't fix it as there is still a hard spot in the iron waiting to start the whole process again once the abrasion or use continues! This will upgrade the rotor size from the 258mm non-vented E30 rotors to 312mm very vented M3 rotors. I've made two sets, one is for DD/Eibach Pro-Kit and one for coil-overs. You will need a custom set of hubs) Do you want bigger rear brakes ?

CV Axles Cons: smaller rear wheel bearing. This page was last edited on 21 February 2013, at 20:27. If you get a pair of e30 m3 hubs and modify dust-shield, e36m3 rear rotors fit the hub and have same center bore. The E30 M3 was fitted with completely different hubs, allowing it to take 5-lug wheels instead of the standard 4x100 E30 wheels. There's nothing more frustrating, than trying to find all this hardware while your car is already taken apart. Front is very simple, but due to use of E36 M3 parts, it is the more expensive part of the build. Parts List: That added to hubs also being 23.2mm wider, you've officially moved e30's ET20 perfect offset to ET63.2. This is the amount of heat the brake pads can withstand before they overheat into "brake fade", this feels like you have a hard pedal but no brake power (similar to a failed servo). Improved rear wheel bearings. This high spot gets VERY hot and into a changes into a different and much harder form of iron. C $372.17; or Best Offer; ... BMW E30 front and rear 5 lug adapter kit fits.

Z3 (6 Cylinder) rear hub brake options? Do quick math and you'll see that final offset of using MZ3 rear results in ET40 final result. Here are two different setups depending on your model year. You don't want to try and find parts at a great price, just to have to spend over $100 on bolts. In a perfect world, if finances allow, you'll be going this route.

You are likely here because you need/want: bigger brakes; increased wheel selection; or a new project to feed the need. The lighter a brake system is, the faster and more controlled the suspension action can be, giving the car more grip. 1. As you can see, there's a difference in height of the rotor. Written by kratzer. A lot of those brands mislead by using "OE" in their names. There is NO NEED to get drilled and/or grooved or funny coloured discs, unless you like the look. Aside from being the best swap option, it is also by far the most expensive. On one hand there is a bigger market of rims in 5x120 than in the 4x100 that comes as standard and on the other hand the brakes size is increased. BMW E30 BRAKE REAR RIGHT BRAKE CALIPER,brand BOSCH, NEW.FOR rear disc BRAKE E30s. This guide focuses on these swap options. Some even resort to running higher offset wheels with spacers. There are some fundamental differences in trailing arms and hubs.

That difference is due to the height of the hub itself. No … Literally, bolt on suspension and brakes and you are good to go. This is a very specific set of parts. Pros: cheap, $250 gets you in. This method can be used as resolution for using standard E36 spindles OR using stock E30 control arms, BUT NOT BOTH. Do not buy Chinese or off-brand control arms. I would be interested to see how you make them fit. 3 - Using cooling air from the brake duct to cool the caliper.

This is one of the solutions that I have seen.

A lot of knowledge here has been compiled from dozens of swaps from many members of the E30 community, and information in section is correct. This page was generated at 11:17 PM. TA's themselves are identical to 84-85 325e with one exception: ABS bung is shaved down to fit E36 ABS sensor. I used camber plates to fix caster just enough to reduce rub. Downsides are increased unsprung mass (and rotational mass due to the larger diameter), a slight increase in cost if it's a re-drilled one-piece disc or a larger increase in cost if it's alloy bells and rotors. - The 300mm.de kit, this uses a 312mm re-drilled disc and brackets to suit a BMW sliding calliper. This is probably the most dangerous form of brake problem and for the few seconds it happens the effect is as ba as a burst brake line. Right to left and left to right, makes them bolt right up. There may be a new 290-300mm 4-pot kit available next year specifically for the 15" BBS... 16" - 300mm (320mm in some motorsport alloys). When doing the conversion with parts of an E36 in its most basic version the front brakes are increased from 260 mm … Uses 32mm caliper piston. Converting to a 5-lug setup is a popular option for serious performance driving. http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, 1. These TAs use standard 75mm bearing, that's used on BMW 3-series for nearly 2 decades and Porsche's. Press and a good large socket selection to use with the press.



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